Executive Summary & Main Facts
In a decisive move that redefines the parameters of contemporary Haute Joaillerie, Milanese luxury house Pomellato has unveiled Stile Libero—a 65-piece High Jewelry collection celebrating unrestricted creative expression, structural audacity, and chromatic vitality. Translated from Italian as "Free Style," the collection represents an intentional departure from the rigid, formal conventions that historically characterized traditional Place Vendôme jewelry, asserting an ethos grounded in Italian eclecticism, exceptional goldsmithing, and modern wearability.
Rooted in the philosophical concept of ars combinatoria—the "art of combinations"—the collection synthesizes historical references, unorthodox gemological choices, and innovative mechanical techniques. Rather than treating high jewelry as static, vault-bound investments, Pomellato positions Stile Libero as dynamic, tactile armor designed for self-assured, independent connoisseurs.
The launch coincides with a landmark cultural moment for the house: its inaugural Parisian exhibition, Pomellato, Le Joaillier Révolutionnaire, staged at the Palais de Tokyo, anchoring the brand’s historic identity alongside its modern high jewelry ambitions.
Chronology: The Evolution of Milanese Jewelry Revolution
Understanding the significance of Stile Libero requires tracing Pomellato’s foundational philosophy back to its inception during a decade defined by cultural reinvention.
1967 1970s–1990s 2020s Present
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Pino Rabolini founds Pioneers ready-to-wear Expands into dedicated Launches 'Stile Libero' (65 pcs)
Pomellato in Milan; jewelry, colored stones, High Jewelry collections and historic retrospective at
introduces prêt-à-porter and sculptural chainwork balancing heritage and Palais de Tokyo in Paris
philosophy to fine craft for working women contemporary innovationThe 1967 Prêt-à-Porter Revolution
Founded in Milan in 1967 by Pino Rabolini, heir to an established lineage of goldsmiths, Pomellato was established on a radical premise: introducing the concept of prêt-à-porter (ready-to-wear) to the fine jewelry sector. At a time when luxury jewelry was predominantly conservative, purchased for women by men, and reserved exclusively for formal evening galas, Rabolini recognized the emergence of the modern, financially autonomous woman. He envisioned jewels that could be worn effortlessly throughout the day, driven by design, tactile volume, and personality rather than purely ostentatious diamond carats.
Architectural Heritage and Milanese Design
Throughout the late 20th century, Pomellato embedded itself into Milan’s rich industrial design and architectural culture. The house rejected excessive ornamentation in favor of clean curves, ergonomic links, and bold colored cabochons—elements that became signatures of Italian luxury.
The Shift to Contemporary High Jewelry
In recent years, under the stewardship of Creative Director Vincenzo Castaldo and CEO Sabina Belli, Pomellato has methodically expanded its high jewelry presence. Rather than conforming to traditional classical formats, the maison has transposed its signature design codes—volumetric gold, tactile chains, and vibrant, unconventional gemstones—into museum-tier Haute Joaillerie, culminating in the debut of Stile Libero.
Supporting Data: Collection Architecture and Masterpiece Breakdown
The 65 pieces comprising Stile Libero are organized into three thematic chapters: Visionary Colors, Magnetic Gold, and Hypnotic Shadows. Each chapter examines a distinct facet of the house’s artisanal mastery, pairing centuries-old Casa Pomellato goldsmithing with sophisticated gem-setting techniques.
┌──────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────┐
│ STILE LIBERO COLLECTION │
├────────────────────────────┬─────────────────────────────┬───────────────────────────────┤
│ VISIONARY COLORS │ MAGNETIC GOLD │ HYPNOTIC SHADOWS │
├────────────────────────────┼─────────────────────────────┼───────────────────────────────┤
│ • Chromatic Audacity │ • Volumetric Sculptures │ • Openwork Goldsmithing │
│ • Custom Griffes Settings │ • Architectural Chokers │ • Pierced Gold Lace │
│ • Key: Mandala Chromia, │ • Unorthodox Brown Diamonds │ • Key: Arabesque Necklace │
│ Drops of Paraíba, │ • Key: Byzantine Choker │ (1,450 Artisanal Hours) │
│ Rainbow Supreme │ │ │
└────────────────────────────┴─────────────────────────────┴───────────────────────────────┘Chapter I: Visionary Colors
This chapter highlights chromatic audacity, eschewing monochromatic compositions in favor of rare, saturated mineral palettes and unexpected geometric arrangements. To maximize light intake and presence, Pomellato deployed bespoke griffes (prong settings) engineered to suspend gems above the metal plane, creating architectural elevation.
- The Mandala Chromia Necklace: Constructed around an intricate openwork medallion, this piece features a delicate gold framework set with 99 rare, unheated multicolor natural sapphires. The kaleidoscopic central motif is framed by pavé-set brown diamonds, creating an optical balance between warm earth tones and chromatic spectrums.
- The Drops of Paraíba Choker: Spotlighting one of the world’s most coveted and geologically scarce gems, this choker features 21 pear-shaped Brazilian and Mozambican Paraíba tourmalines, chosen for their distinctive neon-turquoise luminescence and mounted to evoke rhythmic fluid movement.
- The Rainbow Supreme Rivière: Reinterpreting the traditional rivière necklace, this creation comprises a continuous chromatic gradation of 68 round-cut tourmalines totaling over 157 carats. Each stone was hand-selected over months to ensure seamless hue transitions, ranging from deep forest greens and rubellite pinks to honey-yellows and aquatic blues.
Chapter II: Magnetic Gold
Magnetic Gold celebrates Pomellato’s core identity as a master goldsmith house. Pieces in this chapter emphasize sculptural chains, ergonomic collars, and statement cocktail rings, juxtaposing substantial precious metal with diamonds selected for their character and non-traditional coloration.
- The Byzantine Choker: A masterclass in tactile metallurgy, the Byzantine choker is anchored by nine emerald-cut fancy brown diamonds. Each stone is cradled within custom-fabricated rose-gold bezels featuring crater-textured contours—hand-finished using antique Florentine engraving and modern brushing techniques to create a balance between raw topography and high polish.
Chapter III: Hypnotic Shadows
Focusing on the negative space within jewelry design, Hypnotic Shadows explores the interplay of light, skin, and hand-pierced openwork gold. Drawing inspiration from classical Mediterranean and Arabesque architectural latticework, this chapter transforms solid gold into flexible, wearable lace.
Arabesque Necklace — Craftsmanship Breakdown
┌────────────────────────────────────────────────────────┐
│ Total Atelier Bench Time: 1,450 Hours │
│ Primary Metal: Hand-Pierced Rose Gold │
│ Feature Gemstones: 18 Fancy Rose-Cut Diamonds │
│ Design Principle: Negative Space / Openwork │
└────────────────────────────────────────────────────────┘- The Arabesque Necklace: Representing the pinnacle of the collection’s technical execution, the Arabesque necklace required over 1,450 hours of meticulous hand-piercing and finishing at Pomellato’s Milanese ateliers. Crafted in soft rose gold, the articulated framework is illuminated by 18 fancy rose-cut diamonds, chosen for their antique faceting, which delivers an understated, candlelight glow rather than a sharp modern brilliance.
Official Responses: Executive & Creative Perspectives
The leadership at Pomellato frames Stile Libero not simply as an aesthetic exercise, but as a cultural manifesto designed to challenge traditional luxury norms.
The Executive Vision
Sabina Belli, Chief Executive Officer of Pomellato, contextualizes the collection within the evolving demographics of luxury consumers:
"Stile Libero embodies high jewelry in the free-spirited Pomellato way. Each creation holds precious stories of creativity and craftsmanship: jewels that unite distant worlds and push creative boundaries, emblems of beauty and wonder, conceived for women who are free, strong, and authentic protagonists of their own style."
Belli’s statements underscore the brand’s strategic focus on female self-purchasers—a core demographic since 1967—distinguishing Pomellato from heritage houses whose messaging often leans on gifting or bridal contexts.
The Creative Direction
Creative Director Vincenzo Castaldo, who has shaped the maison’s artistic narrative for more than two decades, highlighted the instinctual ethos underpinning the collection’s technical rigor:
"Stile Libero is the art of moving instinctively, embracing the courage to blend skills and mastery. It is creativity expressed without fear, refined, liberated, and touched by a quiet, thoughtful provocation."
Castaldo emphasized that the collection’s eclecticism relies on master craftspeople capable of pushing beyond established techniques: "To combine diverse eras, gemstone varieties, and goldsmith traditions requires absolute technical command. True freedom in design is only possible when your craftsmanship is flawless."
Industry Implications & Strategic Positioning
The unveiling of Stile Libero signals broader structural and aesthetic evolutions across the global high jewelry sector.
HIGH JEWELRY PARADIGM SHIFT
Traditional Conventions Pomellato 'Stile Libero'
┌───────────────────────────┐ ┌───────────────────────────┐
│ • Monochromatic Diamonds │ vs. │ • Vibrant Colored Gems │
│ • Rigid Symmetrical Cuts │ │ • Organic & Diverse Cuts │
│ • Occasion-Only Wear │ │ • Ergonomic Day-to-Night │
│ • Male-Gifting Centric │ │ • Self-Purchasing Focus │
└───────────────────────────┘ └───────────────────────────┘Redefining the High Jewelry Aesthetic
For decades, high jewelry was largely defined by symmetrical settings dominated by high-carat white diamonds and the "big three" precious stones (rubies, sapphires, and emeralds). Stile Libero accelerates an industry-wide pivot toward chromatic diversity and character-rich gems, such as Paraíba tourmalines, fancy brown diamonds, and polychromatic natural sapphires. This aesthetic caters to seasoned collectors seeking rarity through individuality rather than standardized gem certifications.
Challenging the Place Vendôme Hegemony
By anchoring Italian design philosophies—characterized by sculptural volume, fluid ergonomics, and tactile warmth—against traditional Parisian geometry, Pomellato carves out a distinctive, high-margin niche within parent company Kering’s luxury portfolio. This enables the group to directly challenge historic Place Vendôme institutions by offering an expressive, daytime-appropriate alternative to classic European formal jewelry.
The Rise of Wearable High Jewelry
As consumer preferences tilt toward "quiet luxury" and expressive personal style, the boundaries separating daily jewelry from high jewelry are softening. Stile Libero responds directly to this shift. Pieces like the Byzantine Choker and the Arabesque Necklace are engineered to lie flat against the collarbone, offering movement and lightweight structural integrity designed to accompany modern lifestyle wardrobes rather than remain in safes.
Cultural Resonance: The Palais de Tokyo Exhibition
Deepening the collection’s dialogue with contemporary art, Pomellato accompanied the launch with its first major retrospective in Paris: Pomellato, Le Joaillier Révolutionnaire, hosted at the Palais de Tokyo.
Running through July 20, the exhibition showcases rare archival pieces alongside iconic imagery from fashion photography legends who helped construct the brand’s visual vernacular over six decades:
- Helmut Newton: Celebrated for capturing bold, powerful female subjects in stark, monochromatic formats during the 1970s and 1980s.
- Albert Watson: Renowned for graphic lighting and structural precision that mirrored Pomellato’s architectural chains.
- Lord Snowdon: Instrumental in framing the casual, aristocratic cool of the house’s early collections.
By staging this cultural retrospective in Paris—the spiritual epicenter of high jewelry—Pomellato reinforces its position not merely as a jeweler, but as an influential design house that continuously challenges the boundaries between fine craft, visual art, and personal liberation. With Stile Libero, the Milanese maison reaffirms that high jewelry can remain technically uncompromising while embracing total artistic freedom.
