Introduction: A New Era for Industry Governance
As the global jewellery and watch sector navigates an increasingly complex landscape of ESG (Environmental, Social, and Governance) requirements, the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) has officially ushered in the 2026 term of its newly updated Standards Committee. This transition represents a pivotal moment in the organization’s governance history, signaling a deepened commitment to transparency, ethical sourcing, and consumer protection.
The Standards Committee serves as the engine room of the RJC, responsible for the rigorous, often meticulous process of drafting and refining the standards that thousands of global businesses rely upon to demonstrate their integrity. With the appointment of new leadership and a diverse cohort of industry and non-industry experts, the RJC aims to bridge the gap between high-level policy and the practical, daily realities of the supply chain.
The New Leadership: Strategic Appointments
The RJC has announced the appointment of two distinguished Co-Chairs to lead the committee through this new mandate. These appointments reflect a strategic balance between regulatory expertise and technical industry knowledge.
Sara Yood: Non-Industry Co-Chair
Sara Yood, President & CEO of the Jewellers Vigilance Committee (JVC), steps into the role of Non-Industry Co-Chair. Recognized as a premier authority on jewellery industry regulations, Yood brings a wealth of experience in legal guidance and compliance. Her work with the JVC has made her a central figure in safeguarding the integrity of the U.S. market, and her leadership at the RJC is expected to strengthen the organization’s alignment with international legal frameworks.
"As I step into the co-chair role, I am looking forward to continuing the complicated but rewarding work of updating and maintaining the various RJC standards," Yood stated. "Not everyone would be excited to review and revise such a dense text, but I find the process invigorating. We know that the nuance of the text is vitally important to the businesses that rely on it, and serving as one of those layers is a challenging yet gratifying exercise."
Eduard Stefanescu: Industry Co-Chair
Representing the industry side, Eduard Stefanescu—Sustainability Manager at C.HAFNER GmbH + Co. KG—has been named the Industry Co-Chair. A geoscientist by trade, Stefanescu is a recognized leader in precious metals innovation, recycling, and circularity. His involvement as Chair of the European Precious Metals Federation’s Sustainability Platform provides the committee with a sophisticated perspective on technical supply-chain integrity.
"My goal is to help RJC remain the frontrunner in developing standards and guidance that embed sustainability, ESG principles, and transparency," Stefanescu remarked. "The RJC carries both a responsibility and an opportunity to address global challenges through standards that promote human and labour rights, environmental protection, and transparency in supply chains."
Chronology of Governance Evolution
The RJC’s governance model has evolved significantly since its inception, moving from a nascent industry initiative to a globally recognized benchmark. The current 2026 term follows a period of intense growth in the demand for certified, responsible jewellery.
- Early Foundations: The RJC was established to create a unified system for tracking and certifying jewellery supply chains.
- The Scaling Phase: Over the last decade, the organization moved from basic audit requirements to complex, multi-tiered standards covering everything from diamond sourcing to human rights in artisanal gold mining.
- The 2026 Pivot: With the launch of the new Standards Committee, the focus has shifted toward "future-proofing." The committee is tasked not only with maintaining existing standards but with integrating emerging technologies and addressing the "practicality gap"—the difficulty of applying high-level ethical standards to small-scale mining operations and complex retail environments.
Supporting Data and Thematic Focus Areas
The 2026 committee is defined by its diversity. By bringing together representatives from luxury houses like Chanel, Hermès, and Bvlgari alongside independent consumer advocates and academic experts from institutions like Chatham House and the University of Surrey, the RJC ensures that every standard is stress-tested from multiple angles.
Key Focus Areas for 2026:
- Artisanal and Small-Scale Mining (ASM): With over 20 million people employed in the sector, the committee, through members like Marcin Piersiak of the Alliance for Responsible Mining, is prioritizing the integration of ASM into the formal supply chain.
- Consumer Trust and Transparency: Following the contributions of consumer advocates like Antonio Serra and Jennifer Hillard, the committee is placing a heavy emphasis on ensuring that industry claims regarding sustainability are verifiable and not misleading to the end-user.
- Circular Economy: Led by technical experts like Eduard Stefanescu, the committee is codifying standards that reward recycling, reuse, and the reduction of waste in precious metal refining.
- Operational Pragmatism: Members like Alexander Gul have been vocal about the need for standards that are "workable." For a global supply chain, a standard that is ethically perfect but operationally impossible is of little use. The current committee is tasked with harmonizing these two competing needs.
Official Perspectives: Voices from the Committee
The strength of the RJC lies in its collective intelligence. Several committee members have highlighted the importance of this collaborative environment:
- Ainsley Butler (Outgoing Joint Chair): Reflecting on her tenure, Butler noted that the committee’s success is rooted in the "depth of engagement." She emphasized that the committee functions best when members question assumptions and bring forward unique technical insights.
- Kessa Trowell: Representing the retailer’s perspective, Trowell expressed excitement about shaping forward-looking solutions. "I look forward to helping shape practical, forward-looking solutions that drive improvement, build trust and strengthen the integrity of our industry as a whole."
- Jennifer Hillard: Looking back on her term as a consumer representative, Hillard stressed the importance of clear communication. "My greatest interest has been the way in which the requirements of the RJC standards have been communicated to ensure they can be applied throughout the supply chain in a way that is clear and not misleading."
Implications: The Path Forward
The work of the 2026 Standards Committee will have immediate implications for the global jewellery market. As regulatory scrutiny—such as the EU’s Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive—tightens, RJC certification is becoming less of an option and more of a baseline for market access.
1. Strengthening Global Compliance
By aligning with international legal frameworks, the committee is ensuring that RJC-certified members are better prepared for regional legislative changes. This proactive approach reduces the legal risk for retailers and suppliers alike.
2. Standardizing "Sustainability"
The committee is working to define exactly what "sustainability" means in the context of jewellery. By moving beyond marketing buzzwords and into technical, measurable criteria, the RJC is helping to eliminate greenwashing, thereby protecting the reputation of the entire sector.
3. Fostering Inclusivity
The intentional inclusion of ASM advocates and independent consultants ensures that the committee does not become an echo chamber for large corporations. By giving a seat at the table to those working on the ground, the RJC acknowledges that true sustainability must be inclusive of the most vulnerable players in the value chain.
Full Committee Roster: 2026
The 2026 committee is a robust assembly of talent. Their collective work will define the ethical standards of the jewellery industry for years to come.
Joint-Chairs:
- Industry: Eduard Stefanescu (C.Hafner GmbH + Co. KG)
- Non-Industry: Sara Yood (Jewelers Vigilance Committee, JVC)
Industry Members:
Alexander Gul (A. Gul KG), Alethea Inns (Geological Science International), Ben Ronca (Leach Garner), Charlene Nemson (Hermès), Donald Bray (Fura Gems), Marie-Charlotte Drusene Chancogne (Chanel), Melanie Mater (De Beers Group), Noora Jamsheer (Danat), Phillipe Telouk (SAAMP), Raluca Anghel (Natural Diamond Council), Silvia Bezzone (Bvlgari Group and LVMH Italia), Valerie Michel (Rosy Blue), Wafa Jaffery (Dubai Multi Commodities Centre, DMCC).
Non-Industry Members:
Abbi Buxton (Independent Consultant), Antonino Serra Cambaceres (International Consumer Protection Expert), Chris Vandome (Chatham House), Maggie Gabos (Responsible Minerals Initiative), Marcin Piersiak (Alliance for Responsible Mining), Monica Barcellos Harris (Conservation International), Professor Gavin Hilson (Surrey Business School), Renata Lawton Misra (Carbon Trust), Laurent Massi (Independent Consultant).
Guests of the Committee:
Francesco Giunta, Kesah Trowell, Kim Wenzel, Laure Williams, Marco Quadri.
Conclusion: A Legacy of Responsibility
As the 2026 Standards Committee begins its term, the message from the Responsible Jewellery Council is clear: the industry must evolve, and it must do so with both rigor and empathy. Through the leadership of Sara Yood and Eduard Stefanescu, and the combined expertise of the new committee, the RJC is well-positioned to meet the challenges of the future. The work they undertake in the coming months will not only impact the bottom lines of the world’s leading jewellery firms but will also set the standard for how the industry treats its people, its environment, and its consumers. The evolution of the RJC standards remains the most significant safeguard for the future of the global jewellery trade.
