As the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) celebrates its 20th anniversary, the industry finds itself at a critical inflection point. The luxury sector, once defined primarily by aesthetic perfection and heritage, is increasingly defined by the integrity of its supply chain and the depth of its environmental stewardship. Standing at the forefront of this evolution is CHANEL Watches and Fine Jewelry.
In an exclusive anniversary interview, Marianne Zani, CSR and Exceptional Sourcing Director at CHANEL Watches and Fine Jewelry, offers a rare glimpse into the internal philosophy of one of the world’s most guarded and influential Maisons. For CHANEL, sustainability is not a modern marketing appendage; it is an evolution of the values that have guided the House for over a century.
The Genesis of Sustainability at CHANEL
A Philosophy Rooted in Permanence
When asked to pinpoint the exact moment sustainability became an impetus for the House, Zani suggests that such a complex commitment cannot be boiled down to a single date on a calendar. Instead, it is an inherent quality of the brand’s DNA.
"Sustainability has been rooted in our work for a long time and is integral to our values as a House," Zani explains. The formalization of these efforts—now encapsulated in the House Sustainability Ambition—serves as both a roadmap for current operations and a blueprint for future legacy. While the formal strategy is rigorous and data-driven, the spirit of the initiative is, according to Zani, "about ensuring that the excellence we provide today does not compromise the possibility of excellence tomorrow."
Chronology of Milestones
To understand the trajectory of CHANEL’s modern sustainability journey, one must look at key structural shifts within the organization:
- 2009: CHANEL Watches and Fine Jewelry joins the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC). This move marked a pivotal shift toward external verification and industry-wide accountability.
- 2011: The establishment of Fondation CHANEL. This independent charitable arm was created to empower women and girls, reflecting the social pillar of the House’s sustainability mission.
- 2011: The first RJC certification is awarded to CHANEL, setting a new benchmark for their internal auditing processes.
- 2019: Initiation of the red coral preservation research project in partnership with the Centre Scientifique de Monaco.
- 2024: CHANEL formally adopts net-zero targets validated by the Science Based Targets initiative (SBTi), positioning the brand as a leader in luxury climate action.
The Strategic Role of the Responsible Jewellery Council
The decision to join the RJC in 2009 was not merely a public relations exercise; it was a strategic alignment of business ethics. Zani notes that the rationale was twofold: to provide a rigorous, transversal certification for their practices and to participate in a forum that addresses the social and environmental complexities of the jewelry trade.
"The RJC became a key forum for us to engage more widely on responsible practices," Zani notes. In an industry where provenance and ethical sourcing are often obscured by multi-layered supply chains, the RJC provides the structural backbone necessary to maintain trust. For CHANEL, membership represents a commitment to transparency that transcends the product itself, influencing how the Maison interacts with global partners and stakeholders.
Beyond the Atelier: Scientific Preservation and Biodiversity
One of the most compelling aspects of CHANEL’s contemporary sustainability work is its focus on marine biodiversity—specifically the red coral of the Mediterranean. Since 2019, the Maison has invested heavily in research conducted by the Centre Scientifique de Monaco.
The Red Coral Initiative
Red coral (Corallium rubrum) is a species of immense ecological and cultural significance, yet it has historically suffered from a lack of scientific literature. By funding this research, CHANEL has moved beyond "corporate giving" into the realm of genuine scientific advancement.
The project has yielded two distinct outcomes:
- Academic Advancement: Deepening the understanding of the species’ growth, habitat, and resilience in a changing climate.
- Public Awareness: By translating complex scientific data into accessible media—such as the publication of a youth album—CHANEL has successfully sensitized the next generation to the fragility of marine ecosystems.
This initiative exemplifies the modern luxury model: leveraging capital to solve ecological problems that are often overlooked by public policy.
The Watchmaking Division: A Roadmap to Net-Zero
Within the watchmaking division, sustainability is manifested through tangible, often difficult, operational changes. Zani highlights the transition to net-zero emissions by 2040 as the most significant challenge currently facing the team.
Operational Transformation
"Reaching net-zero is something that requires action across teams and activities," Zani says. This is not a top-down mandate; it is a collaborative effort involving supply chain logistics, material sourcing, and energy management.
Two critical milestones highlight this shift:
- Material Innovation: The continuous exploration of recycled metals and sustainable alternatives to traditional high-impact materials.
- Ethical Sourcing: The decision, made several years ago, to cease the use of exotic leathers. This move was a clear signal that the Maison is willing to sacrifice specific aesthetic options in favor of animal welfare and ethical supply chains.
These actions are not incidental; they are the result of a "strong roadmap and vision" that dictates that the materials used in a CHANEL timepiece must be as refined in their history as they are in their design.
Insights from the Boardroom: The Complexity of the Industry
As a board member of the RJC, Zani possesses a vantage point that few in the industry enjoy. When asked about the most powerful insight she has gained, her answer centers on the paradox of the jewelry sector.
"The uniqueness of our industry, in terms of variety of actors, stakes, and opportunities, is what I keep going back to," she observes. "It mirrors the complexity of sustainability matters and the fact that there are no ‘one size fits all’ solutions."
This realization is perhaps the most important takeaway for any stakeholder in the luxury space. The jewelry industry involves small-scale miners, global luxury conglomerates, high-tech labs, and artisan workshops—all operating under a single banner. Steering this ecosystem requires more than just internal policy; it requires the kind of collective, industry-wide dialogue that the RJC facilitates.
Zani’s perspective underscores a shift in how luxury brands view their competitors. In the context of sustainability, the "industry" is no longer a collection of rival entities, but a shared ecosystem that must evolve collectively to remain relevant and responsible.
Implications for the Future of Luxury
The interview with Marianne Zani reveals a fundamental truth about the future of high fashion and fine jewelry: the "luxury" of the future will be defined by the absence of compromise.
As CHANEL pushes toward its 2040 net-zero goal, the implications for the wider market are clear:
- Transparency is the new currency: Brands that cannot verify their supply chains will lose their standing with a more informed, conscious consumer base.
- Science-led stewardship: Philanthropy is no longer enough. Luxury houses are expected to participate in scientific research and ecological preservation as a core business function.
- Long-termism over short-term gains: By setting targets that span decades, CHANEL is signaling that the luxury industry must move away from quarterly-driven decision-making in favor of intergenerational sustainability.
As we reflect on the 20 years of progress since the RJC’s inception, it is evident that the path forward is paved with the difficult, necessary work of transformation. For CHANEL, this is not just about protecting their reputation; it is about ensuring that the stories told by their watches and jewelry remain timeless in every sense of the word—durable, beautiful, and fundamentally ethical.
In the words of Zani, it is the "tangible steps combined with a strong roadmap" that inspire change. As the industry looks toward the next two decades, the focus will undoubtedly shift from "intentions" to "impact." With the structural support of the RJC and the clear-eyed leadership of visionaries within Houses like CHANEL, the industry is well-positioned to meet the demands of a changing world.
